Radon Mitigation Guides: Systems, Fans, Sealing and Costs

If a confirmed test shows 4 pCi/L or more, EPA recommends fixing your home. The usual fix is a soil suction system: a pipe and fan that pull radon from under the foundation and vent it above the roof. Some systems lower radon by up to 99% (EPA, Consumer’s Guide to Radon Reduction).

The guides below explain how these systems work, how they are installed, and how to look after the fan. For prices, see radon mitigation cost.

Guides in this section

How radon mitigation systems workHow a radon mitigation (venting) system pulls radon from under your home, the main types by foundation, installation rules to check, and upkeep.
Radon mitigation system installation: steps, DIY vs proWhat happens when a radon mitigation system is installed, step by step, which states require a licensed installer, and what to know before doing it yourself.
Radon fans: how they workWhat a radon fan does, where it has to go, how much power it uses, how long it lasts, and how to tell from the gauge that it's working.
Radon fan noise, lifespan and replacementHow to tell a radon fan is failing, what fan noise and condensation mean, how long fans last, and what happens when one is replaced.
Radon fan replacement and installation costWhat it costs to replace a radon fan, what a new system costs, and what a radon fan costs to run each year, from state radon programs and federal data.
Sealing cracks for radon: what worksDoes sealing basement cracks lower radon? What EPA says about sealing alone, which sealants the standards call for, and where sealing does help.
Radon sump pump coversWhy an open sump lets radon in, what a radon sump cover must do under EPA's standards, and how a sealed sump becomes part of a mitigation system.

Check your county

See the share of radon tests at or above 4 pCi/L where you live, from state and CDC test records.